You will find the written pattern below. If you prefer to download the FREE pdf file, you can find it at these two places:
~ Worsted weight yarn, 4-ply, any color you want
~ Size 8 (5 mm) knitting needles
~ Crochet Hook (for size see the tutorial below)
~ 240 Pony Beads, any color(s) you want
~ Stitch holder
~ Yarn needle
~ 2 small buttons
~ Sewing needle and thread; only needed if the holes of the buttons you choose are too small to be sewn on with the knitting yarn and the yarn needle
Abbreviations
~ st - stitch
~ sts - stitches
~ k - knit
~ p - purl
~ abkst - add a bead and then knit the stitch
~ abpst - add a bead and then purl the stitch
~ k2tog - knit two stitches together
~ yo - yarn over
~ garter sts - knit all rows
Tutorial: How To Add Beads To Your Knitting
There are several different ways to add beads to your knitting, but the following tutorial will show you the one that seems easiest for me. I took some pictures, which will hopefully help with explaining.
I use Pony Beads when I work with worsted weight yarn because to me they are the perfect size in comparison with the yarn. You will also need a crochet hook.
Make sure that your crochet hook is small enough for the bead to slide loosely over it, but also not too small because you have to be able to comfortably pick up a stitch from the knitting needle with the hook, and then slide it through the bead. I'll explain that process in just a moment. Play around with your different sizes of crochet hooks to see what works best for you. I'm using a size 3.75 mm here.
Picture 1
How to add a bead:
1. Slide a bead over the crochet hook.
2. Pick up a stitch from the left knitting needle by sliding the hook into the stitch from the top to the bottom, as shown in picture 1.
Picture 2
3. Slide the stitch off the left knitting needle onto the crochet hook as shown in picture 2.
Picture 3
4. Push the bead to the front of the crochet hook and slide the stitch, which you are holding on the hook, through the bead as shown in picture 3.
Picture 4
5. Slide the stitch off the crochet hook back onto the left knitting needle as shown in picture 4.
Picture 5
6. Knit the stitch. The bead is now securely anchored as shown in picture 5.
Repeat the exact same steps every time you want to add a bead, and also use this technique if you want to add beads to a purl row, but there, of course, you will purl your stitch once the bead is added instead of knitting it. It might take a bit to get used to this technique, but once you've done it for a while it will become really easy.
Instructions
* Please note: We are working the sweater from the bottom up *
Front
~ Cast on 26 sts
~ Work 5 rows in garter sts
~ Row 1 - k 2 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 4 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 2 sts
~ Row 2 - p across to end of row
~ Row 3 - k across to end of row
~ Row 4 - p 4 sts, abpst, p 4 sts, abpst, p 3 sts, abpst, p 3 sts, abpst, p 3 sts, abpst, p 4 sts
~ Row 5 - k across to end of row
~ Row 6 - p across to end of row
~ Row 7 - k 2 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 4 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 2 sts
~ Row 8 - p across to end of row
~ Row 9 - k across to end of row
~ Row 10 - p 4 sts, abpst, p 4 sts, abpst, p 3 sts, abpst, p 3 sts, abpst, p 3 sts, abpst, p 4 sts
~ Row 11 - k across to end of row
~ Row 12 - p across to end of row
~ Row 13 - k 2 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 4 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 2 sts
~ Row 14 - p across to end of row
~ Row 15 - k across to end of row
~ Row 16 - p 4 sts, abpst, p 4 sts, abpst, p 3 sts, abpst, p 3 sts, abpst, p 3 sts, abpst, p 4 sts
~ Row 17 - k across to end of row
~ Row 18 - p across to end of row
~ Row 19 - k 2 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 4 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 2 sts
~ Row 20 - p across to end of row
~ Row 21 - k across to end of row
~ Row 22 - p 4 sts, abpst, p 4 sts, abpst, p 3 sts, abpst, p 3 sts, abpst, p 3 sts, abpst, p 4 sts
~ Row 23 - k across to end of row
~ Row 24 - p across to end of row
~ Row 25 - k 2 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 4 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 2 sts
~ Row 26 - p across to end of row
~ Row 27 - cast off 3 sts, k to end of row = 23 sts (first armhole formed)
~ Row 28 - cast off 3 sts, abpst, p 4 sts, abpst, p 3 sts, abpst, p 3 sts, abpst, p 3 sts, abpst, p 1 st = 20 sts (second armhole formed)
~ Row 29 - k across to end of row
~ Row 30 - p across to end of row
~ Row 31 - k 3 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 4 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 3 sts
~ Row 32 - p across to end of row
~ Row 33 - k across to end of row
~ Row 34 - p 1 st, abpst, p 4 sts, abpst, p 3 sts, abpst, p 3 sts, abpst, p 3 sts, abpst, p 1 st
~ Row 35 - k across to end of row
~ Row 36 - p across to end of row
~ Row 37 - k 3 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 4 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 3 sts
~ Row 38 - p across to end of row
~ Row 39 - k across to end of row
~ Row 40 - p 1 st, abpst, p 1 st, cast off 14 sts, abpst, p 1 st (front neckline formed)
~ Row 41 - k first 3 sts on needle
~ Row 42 - p first 3 sts on needle
~ Row 43 - k 1 st, abkst, k 1 st (first 3 sts on needle)
~ Row 44 - p first 3 sts on needle
~ Row 45 - k first 3 sts on needle
~ Row 46 - p 1 st, abpst, p 1 st (first 3 sts on needle)
~ Cast off (first shoulder formed)
~ Join yarn at beginning of second 3 sts on needle, repeat rows 41 to 46 (second shoulder formed)
~ Cast off
Back
~ Cast on 26 sts
~ Work 5 rows in garter sts
~ Row 1 - k 2 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 4 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 2 sts
~ Row 2 - p across to end of row
~ Row 3 - k across to end of row
~ Row 4 - p 4 sts, abpst, p 4 sts, abpst, p 3 sts, abpst, p 3 sts, abpst, p 3 sts, abpst, p 4 sts
~ Row 5 - k across to end of row
~ Row 6 - p across to end of row
~ Row 7 - k 2 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 4 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 2 sts
~ Row 8 - p across to end of row
~ Row 9 - k across to end of row
~ Row 10 - p 4 sts, abpst, p 4 sts, abpst, p 3 sts, abpst, p 3 sts, abpst, p 3 sts, abpst, p 4 sts
~ Row 11 - k across to end of row
~ Row 12 - p across to end of row
~ Row 13 - k 2 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 4 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 2 sts
~ Row 14 - p across to end of row
~ Row 15 - k across to end of row
~ Row 16 - p 4 sts, abpst, p 4 sts, abpst, p 3 sts, abpst, p 3 sts, abpst, p 3 sts, abpst, p 4 sts
~ Row 17 - k across to end of row
~ Row 18 - p across to end of row
~ Row 19 - k 2 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 4 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 2 sts
~ Row 20 - p across to end of row
~ Row 21 - k across to end of row
~ Row 22 - p 4 sts, abpst, p 4 sts, abpst, p 3 sts, abpst, p 3 sts, abpst, p 3 sts, abpst, p 4 sts
~ Row 23 - k across to end of row
~ Row 24 - p across to end of row
~ Row 25 - k 2 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 4 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 3 sts, abkst, k 2 sts
~ Row 26 - p across to end of row
* Please note: We are now dividing the back into two halves, in order to make two button bands *
Right Back Half:
~ Row 27 - cast off 3 sts (right back armhole formed), abks, k 3 sts, abks,
k 3 sts, abks
- place remaining 13 sts on stitch holder
- cast on 4 sts (beginning of right button band) = 14 sts
~ Row 28 - k 4 sts, p 10 sts
~ Row 29 - k across to end of row
~ Row 30 - k 1 st, k2tog, k 1 st, p 2 sts, abps, p 3 sts, abps, p 3 sts
~ Row 31 - k 12 sts, yo, k 1 st (first buttonhole formed)
~ Row 32 - k 4 sts, p 10 sts
~ Row 33 - k 1 st, abks, k 3 sts, abks, k 3 sts, abks, k 4 sts
~ Row 34 - k 4 sts, p 10 sts
~ Row 35 - k across to end of row
~ Row 36 - k 1 st, k2tog, k 1 st, p 2 sts, abps, k 3 sts, abps, k 3 sts
~ Row 37 - k 12 sts, yo, k 1 st (second buttonhole formed)
~ Row 38 - k 4 sts, p 10 sts
~ Row 39 - k 1 sts, abks, k 3 sts, abks, k 3 sts, abks, k 4 sts
~ Row 40 - cast off 11 sts (right back neckline formed), p 2 sts = 3 sts
~ Row 41 - k 3 sts
~ Row 42 - p 1 st, abps, p 1 st
~ Row 43 - k 3 sts
~ Row 44 - p 3 sts
~ Row 45 - k 1 st, abks, k 1 st
~ Row 46 - p 3 sts (right back shoulder formed)
~ Cast off
Left Back Half:
~ Row 27 - place remaining 13 sts back on knitting needle
- with wrong side (p side) facing you join yarn
- cast off 3 sts (left back armhole formed), abps, p 4 sts, abps,
p 3 sts
- cast on 4 sts (beginning of left button band) = 14 sts
~ Row 28 - k across to end of row
~ Row 29 - p 10 sts, k 4 sts
~ Row 30 - k 6 sts, abks, k 3 sts, abks, k 3 sts
~ Row 31 - p 10 sts, k 4 sts
~ Row 32 - k across to end of row
~ Row 33 - p 1 st, abps, p 4 sts, abps, p 3 sts, k 4 sts
~ Row 34 - k across to end of row
~ Row 35 - p 10 sts, k 4 sts
~ Row 36 - k 6 sts, abks, k 3 sts, abks, k 3 sts
~ Row 37 - p 10 sts, k 4 sts
~ Row 38 - k across to end of row
~ Row 39 - p 1 st, abps, p 4 sts, abps, p 3 sts, k 4 sts
~ Row 40 - cast off 11 sts (left back neckline formed), k 2 sts = 3 sts
~ Row 41 - p 3 sts
~ Row 42 - k 1 st, abks, k 1 st
~ Row 43 - p 3 sts
~ Row 44 - k 3 sts
~ Row 45 - p 1 st, abps, p 1 st
~ Row 46 - k 3 sts (left back shoulder formed)
~ Cast off
~ With wrong side (p side) facing you, sew front to back, starting with the armholes and ending with the bottom hem
Sleeves
~ With right side (k side) facing you, join yarn at the shoulder and pick up 22 sts, going down the armhole, over the side seam, and up the other armhole to the opposite shoulder
~ Row 1 - p across to end of row
~ Row 2 - k across to end of row
~ Row 3 - p 1 st, abps, p 3 sts, abps, p 3 sts, abps, p 3 sts, abps, p 3 sts, abps, p 4 sts
~ Row 4 - k across to end of row
~ Row 5 - p across to end of row
~ Row 6 - k 1 st, abks, k 4 sts, abks, k 3 sts, abks, k 3 sts, abks, k 3 sts, abks, k 3 sts
~ Row 7 - p across to end of row
~ Row 8 - k across to end of row
~ Row 9 - p 1 st, abps, p 3 sts, abps, p 3 sts, abps, p 3 sts, abps, p 3 sts, abps, p 4 sts
~ Row 10 - k across to end of row
~ Row 11 - p across to end of row
~ Row 12 - k 1 st, abks, k 4 sts, abks, k 3 sts, abks, k 3 sts, abks, k 3 sts, abks, k 3 sts
~ Row 13 - p across to end of row
~ Row 14 - k across to end of row
~ Row 15 - p 1 st, abps, p 3 sts, abps, p 3 sts, abps, p 3 sts, abps, p 3 sts, abps, p 4 sts
~ Row 16 - k across to end of row
~ Row 17 - p across to end of row
~ Row 18 - k 1 st, abks, k 4 sts, abks, k 3 sts, abks, k 3 sts, abks, k 3 sts, abks, k 3 sts
~ Row 19 - p across to end of row
~ Row 20 - k across to end of row
~ Row 21 - p 1 st, abps, p 3 sts, abps, p 3 sts, abps, p 3 sts, abps, p 3 sts, abps, p 4 sts
~ Row 22 - k across to end of row
~ Row 23 - p across to end of row
~ Row 24 - k 1 st, abks, k 4 sts, abks, k 3 sts, abks, k 3 sts, abks, k 3 sts, abks, k 3 sts
~ Row 25 - p across to end of row
~ Row 26 - k across to end of row
~ Row 27 - p 1 st, abps, p 3 sts, abps, p 3 sts, abps, p 3 sts, abps, p 3 sts, abps, p 4 sts
~ Row 28 - k across to end of row
~ Row 29 - p across to end of row
~ Row 30 - k 1 st, abks, k 4 sts, abks, k 3 sts, abks, k 3 sts, abks, k 3 sts, abks, k 3 sts
~ Work 5 rows in garter sts
~ Cast off
~ With wrong side (p side) facing you, sew sleeve seams and shoulder seams closed
Neck
~ With right side (k side) facing you, join yarn in first st of left back half and pick up 33 sts, going across the left back half neckline, left shoulder, front neckline, right shoulder, right back half neckline, and ending in the last st of the right back half
~ Work 2 rows in garter sts
~ Cast off
~ Sew buttons to button band on left back half, directly across from button holes on right back half
~ Weave in all ends
(Design and pattern by Jo Em of Dolls of Suburbia)
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