You will find the written pattern below. If you prefer to download the FREE pdf file, you can find it at these two places:
~ Worsted weight yarn, 4-medium, black and yellow
~ Size 8 (5 mm) knitting needles
~ Stitch holder
~ Yarn needle
~ 2 small yellow or black buttons
~ Sewing needle and thread; only needed if the holes of the buttons you choose are too small to be sewn on with the knitting yarn and the yarn needle
Abbreviations
~ st - stitch
~ sts - stitches
~ k - knit
~ p - purl
~ k2tog - knit two stitches together
~ yo - yarn over
~ stockinette sts - knit one row, purl one row
~ garter sts - knit all rows
Notes
~ The front and back of the sweater are worked from the bottom up. The sleeves and neck are added on.
~ While working the chart and switching from one color to the next, it's best to work with multiple skeins to ensure that your knitted piece will lay flat, however, if you are experienced with colorwork you might choose to work only with two skeins, letting your yarn run along on the purl side, and anchoring it every couple of stitches. No matter which method you choose, don't forget to cross your yarn strands on the purl side before switching colors to avoid holes in your design, and be careful not to pull your anchored yarn too tight.
~ Another great option to work the chart would be to use the duplicate stitch method.
~ If you follow the written instructions, you will not need the chart, but for your reference, in case you want to make some changes, or prefer to follow the chart instead, I have included it here for your reference:
Instructions
Front
~ With yellow, cast on 29 sts
~ Work 5 rows in garter sts, switch to black after last row
~ Rows 1-10 - work in stockinette sts, start first row with k
~ Row 11 - (add yellow yarn) - k 9 sts in black, k 11 sts in yellow, k 9 sts in black
~ Row 12 - p 7 sts in black, p 2 sts in yellow, p 11 sts in black, p 2 sts in yellow, p 7 sts in black
~ Row 13 - k 6 sts in black, k 1 st in yellow, k 3 sts in black, k 9 sts in yellow, k 3 sts in black, k 1 st in yellow, k 6 sts in black
~ Row 14 - p 5 sts in black, p 1 st in yellow, p 2 sts in black, p 13 sts in yellow, p 2 sts in black, p 1 st in yellow, p 5 sts in black
~ Row 15 - k 4 sts in black, k 1 st in yellow, k 2 sts in black, k 2 sts in yellow, k 1 st in black, k 4 sts in yellow, k 1 st in black, k 4 sts in yellow, k 1 st in black, k 2 sts in yellow, k 2 sts in black, k 1 st in yellow, k 4 sts in black
~ Row 16 - p 3 sts in black, p 1 st in yellow, p 2 sts in black, p 2 sts in yellow, p 1 st in black, p 5 sts in yellow, p 1 st in black, p 5 sts in yellow, p 1 st in black, p 2 sts in yellow, p 2 sts in black, p 1 st in yellow, p 3 sts in black
~ Row 17 - k 3 sts in black, k 1 st in yellow, k 1 st in black, k 2 sts in yellow, k 2 sts in black, k 1 st in yellow, k 1 st in black, k 2 sts in yellow, k 3 sts in black, k 2 sts in yellow, k 1 st in black, k 1 st in yellow, k 2 sts in black, k 2 sts in yellow, k 1 st in black, k 1 st in yellow, k 3 sts in black
~ Row 18 - p 3 sts in black, p 1 st in yellow, p 1 st in black, p 1 st in yellow, p 17 sts in black, p 1 st in yellow, p 1 sts in black, p 1 st in yellow, p 3 sts in black
~ Row 19 - k 3 sts in black, k 1 st in yellow, k 1 st in black, k 1 st in yellow, k 17 sts in black, k 1 st in yellow, k 1 sts in black, k 1 st in yellow, k 3 sts in black
~ Row 20 - repeat row 18
~ Row 21 - repeat row 19
~ Row 22 - p 3 sts in black, p 1 st in yellow, p 1 st in black, p 1 st in yellow, p 4 sts in black, p 2 sts in yellow, p 5 sts in black, p 2 sts in yellow, p 4 sts in black, p 1 st in yellow, p 1 st in black, p 1 st in yellow, p 3 sts in black
~ Row 23 - k 3 sts in black, k 1 st in yellow, k 1 st in black, k 2 sts in yellow, k 2 sts in black, k 4 sts in yellow, k 3 sts in black, k 4 sts in yellow k 2 sts in black, k 2 sts in yellow, k 1 st in black, k 1 st in yellow, k 3 sts in black
~ Row 24 - p 3 sts in black, p 1 st in yellow, p 2 sts in black, p 2 sts in yellow, p 1 st in black, p 4 sts in yellow, p 3 sts in black, p 4 sts in yellow, p 1 st in black, p 2 sts in yellow, p 2 sts in black, p 1 st in yellow, p 3 sts in black
~ Row 25 - k 4 sts in black, k 1 st in yellow, k 2 sts in black, k 2 sts in yellow, k 1 st in black, k 3 sts in yellow, k 1 st in black, k 1 st in yellow, k 1 st in black, k 3 sts in yellow, k 1 st in black, k 2 sts in yellow, k 2 sts in black, k 1 st in yellow, k 4 sts in black
~ Row 26 - p 5 sts in black, p 1 st in yellow, p 2 sts in black, p 13 sts in yellow, p 2 sts in black, p 1 st in yellow, p 5 sts in black
~ Row 27 - cast off 3 sts in black (first armhole formed), k 2 sts in black, k 1 st in yellow, k 3 sts in black, k 9 sts in yellow, k 3 sts in black, k 1 st in yellow, k 6 sts in black = 26 sts
~ Row 28 - cast off 3 sts in black (second armhole formed), p 3 sts in black, p 2 sts in yellow, p 11 sts in black, p 2 sts in yellow, p 4 sts in black = 23 sts
~ Row 29 - k 6 sts in black, k 11 sts in yellow, k 6 sts in black (end yellow yarn, and only work with black from now on)
~ Rows 30-39 - work in stockinette sts
~ Row 40 - p 3 sts, cast off 17 sts, p 2 sts (front neckline formed)
~ Row 41-46 - work first 3 sts on needle in stockinette sts, cast off. Join yarn at beginning of second 3 sts on needle, work in stockinette sts (front shoulders formed)
~ Cast off
Back
~ With yellow, cast on 29 sts
~ Work 5 rows in garter sts, switch to black after last row
~ Rows 1-26 - work in stockinette sts, start first row with k
* Please note: We are now dividing the back into two halves, in order to make two button bands *
Right Back Half:
~ Row 27 - cast off 3 sts (right back armhole formed),
- k 12 sts,
- place remaining 13 sts on stitch holder
- cast on 4 sts (beginning of right button band) = 17 sts
~ Row 28 - k 4 sts, p 13 sts
~ Row 29 - k across to end of row
~ Row 30 - k 1 st, k2tog, k 1 st, p 13 sts
~ Row 31 - k 15 sts, yo, k 1 st (first buttonhole formed)
~ Row 32 - k 4 sts, p 13 sts
~ Row 33 - k across to end of row
~ Row 34 - k 4 sts, p 13 sts
~ Row 35 - k across to end of row
~ Row 36 - k 1 st, k2tog, k 1 st, p 13 sts
~ Row 37 - k 15 sts, yo, k 1 st (second buttonhole formed)
~ Row 38 - k 4 sts, p 13 sts
~ Row 39 - k across to end of row
~ Row 40 - cast off 14 sts (right back neckline formed), p 2 sts = 3 sts
~ Rows 41-46 - work in stockinette sts (right back shoulder formed)
~ Cast off
Left Back Half:
~ Row 27 - place remaining 13 sts back on knitting needle,
- with wrong side (p side) facing you join yarn,
- cast off 3 sts (left back armhole formed),
- p 9 sts
- cast on 4 sts (beginning of left button band) = 14 sts
~ Row 28 - k across to end of row
~ Row 29 - p 10 sts, k 4 sts
~ Rows 30-39 - repeat rows 28 and 29
~ Row 40 - cast off 11 sts (left back neckline formed), k 2 sts = 3 sts
~ Rows 41-46 - work in stockinette sts (left back shoulder formed)
~ Cast off
~ With wrong side (p side) facing you, sew front to back, starting with the armholes and ending with the bottom hem. Make sure to match your colors.
Sleeves
~ With right side (k side) facing you, join black yarn at the shoulder and pick up 22 sts, going down the armhole, over the side seam, and up the other armhole to the opposite shoulder
~ Rows 1-30 - work in stockinette sts, start first row with p, switch to yellow after last row
~ Work 5 rows in garter sts
~ Cast off
~ With wrong side (p side) facing you, sew sleeve seams and shoulder seams closed. Make sure to match your colors.
Neck
~ With right side (k side) facing you, join yellow yarn in first st of left back half and pick up 33 sts, going across the left back half neckline, left shoulder, front neckline, right shoulder, right back half neckline, and ending in the last st of the right back half
~ Work 2 rows in garter sts
~ Cast off
~ Sew buttons to button band on left back half, directly across from button holes on right back half
~ Weave in all ends
(Design and pattern by Jo Em of Dolls of Suburbia)
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